Home Improvement Archives - Castle Remodel https://castleremodel.com/category/home-improvement/ Mon, 03 Jun 2024 07:00:00 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.5.5 https://castleremodel.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/05/cropped-CR-32x32.png Home Improvement Archives - Castle Remodel https://castleremodel.com/category/home-improvement/ 32 32 How To Stop A Toilet From Running https://castleremodel.com/how-to-stop-a-toilet-from-running/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=how-to-stop-a-toilet-from-running Mon, 03 Jun 2024 04:57:07 +0000 https://castleremodel.com/?p=3931 Knowing how to stop a toilet from running is a quick and simple process. You don’t need any special tools, and replacement parts are inexpensive. If you are not a diy, hands on type you can still fix a running toilet yourself. Follow the process in this article instead of paying an expensive plumber. There […]

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Knowing how to stop a toilet from running is a quick and simple process. You don’t need any special tools, and replacement parts are inexpensive. If you are not a diy, hands on type you can still fix a running toilet yourself. Follow the process in this article instead of paying an expensive plumber.

There is a chance that after you try all the options in this article, your toilet is at a point that it needs to be replaced. You will know this after you fix it and another problem comes back a little later. 

The good news is changing a toilet is not difficult. Take a look at this article on How To Install A Toilet By Yourself. I walk you through the steps on switching out your toilet yourself. This is another project that isn’t complicated.

Contents

Toilet Runs After Flush

The reason for this is the flush valve is not going back down after the flush. There can be more than one reason for this, but they are easy to find.

Toilet Runs Constantly

This happens when the float is sitting higher than the overflow pipe. If the float is unable to do its job properly, it will not turn the water supply off. 

Toilet Runs Randomly

This symptom happens because the flapper/flush valve gasket is faulty. There are more than one reason for this, and there are more than one solutions to this.

Parts Of A Toilet

Toilet tank with flush valve

There are more than one type of toilet out there. They all have similar parts, and work basically the same way. Once you understand the components that make a toilet work, you will understand more about how they may fail and cause the toilet to run. Most of the parts below are in every toilet style. The flapper and fill valve gasket serve similar functions but are different parts. And the other parts can look different but have the same functions. 

Toilet tank with flapper

Fill Valve

The fill valve is a vertical pipe with a valve at the top. It regulates the water flowing into the tank. It is designed to shut the water off when the float gets to a certain height.

Float

The float is a piece that rises with the water level. As it reaches a certain height it shuts off the water flowing out of the fill valve. The height of the water level can be adjusted by raising or lowering the float. 

Float Adjustment

All floats have a way to adjust them. The floats on a newer fill valve generally have an adjustment screw. If turned to one direction it raises the float height, and the other direction lowers it. If your float is the type that is connected to a metal rod you will grip the rod with both hands, and bend it in the direction you want it to go.

Overflow Pipe

The overflow pipe is a requirement for all toilets. In the event of the fill valve malfunctioning, the overflow pipe transfers water to the toilet bowl instead of overflowing the tank. The height of this pipe should be below the tank rim. The water level height should be between one quarter of an inch and one inch below the top of the overflow pipe.

Flapper

The flapper is a rubber piece that is connected at the base of the overflow pipe. It is used for some toilet designs to create a watertight seal in the opening of the bottom of the tank. It is connected with a chain to the handle, which raises the flapper whenever the toilet is flushed.

Flush Valve Gasket

The flush valve gasket is a piece that has a similar function to a flapper, but on a different toilet design. Flush valves are a more compact stack that the gasket goes around, unlike a flapper that is offset. 

Handle

The handle is the portion of a toilet that we use to flush when necessary. Inside the tank the handle is connected to the flapper or flush valve with a chain.

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Toilet Keeps Running Randomly

There are a handful of reasons why a toilet keeps running randomly. You can narrow the investigation to a few key parts. All of these parts will be located in the toilet tank. This is the rectangular portion that is closest to the wall and higher than the bowl. Begin by taking the lid off the tank.

Inside the tank are several parts designed to work together. If one of these parts stop working right it may be the reason for the toilet running. Let’s take a look at the different parts of a toilet, and what their functions are. This can help you understand what you are looking for.

Toilet Runs Constantly

The number one reason why a toilet runs constantly is because the float is set at a higher level than the top of the overflow pipe. This causes the water to spill into the bowl, keeping the water flowing and not shutting off. The fix for this is simple and does not need replacement parts.

The solution to this problem is to adjust the height of the float so that the water level in the tank is below the top of the overflow pipe. The way to do this depends on the style of float your toilet uses. You want the water level to sit ¼ to 1 inch below the top of the overflow pipe. 

If it’s a ball float you can adjust the height with your hands. Grip the bar holding the float with both hands and bend the side closer to the float towards the ground. Flush the toilet and check the water height to verify you have it at a good position. 

The other type of float adjustment has a thumb screw facing up. You can turn it by hand to lower the float. If you have trouble turning it by hand you can use a screwdriver.

Toilet Keeps Running After Flush

This happens because the flapper or flush valve is not going down at the right time after the flush. This could be because the chain is twisted or kinking. Take the chain off the handle and straighten it out. 

If the flapper is the issue you may need to change the flush assembly.

How To Stop a Running Toilet in Seconds

The first thing you can check is if the flapper or the flush gasket has some sort of buildup. Over time a film can form on the surfaces of the tank. If this film is on the flapper or gasket it can cause the toilet to run. 

To check this, reach your hand in the tank and lift the flapper/gasket. Wipe off around the base of the flapper as best you can. Do the same thing to the surface that the flapper sits on when resting. 

You want to feel the condition of the flapper or gasket to see if it is brittle or cracked. If so it is time to replace it. This is a simple process that is outlined in the video above. 

This is a common possibility that causes a toilet to run. It should be the first thing you check, because it is a simple solution to the problem. If this isn’t the issue you can move onto the next step of finding the problem.

How To Fix A Running Toilet

One way to diagnose the problem is when the toilet is running you can wiggle the handle. If this causes the problem to stop, chances are the flush valve or overflow assembly needs to be replaced (depending on the type of toilet you have). When you lift the lid, check if the chain connecting the handle to the flush valve is straight and not kinked.

If you notice there are signs of the flapper or flush valve gasket in bad condition, you should change this. 

This can be done by removing the tank from the bowl via the two connection screws. You can either take the assembly off and bring it to the hardware store to purchase a new one, or you can take a picture and bring that with you. Write down the brand of the toilet as well, and try to match that to the part you get.

There is also a chance that the float is positioned too high. This would cause the water level to be higher than the overflow pipe. This will cause water to spill into the toilet bowl constantly. Fix this problem by bending the arm that holds the float downward. This should lower the water level to a reasonable height.

How To Fix A Running Toilet With A Button Flush

A toilet with a button flush has different parts than the toilets listed above, but they work the same way. You will want to troubleshoot in a similar fashion as above, and work on the necessary parts. 

If you need to change any parts, aim at purchasing parts by the same manufacturer as your toilet, or ones that are compatible with your brand.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do you fix a toilet that keeps running?

The main cause for this problem is the float is at a level that is too high to shut off the water before it flows into the bowl. The steps to fix this problem are listed above in the section titled Toilet Runs Constantly.

What are the most common causes of a running toilet?

One common cause that causes a toilet to run is a film that has covered the flapper. If enough of this film covers the underside of it, there will be water that runs from the tank to the bowl. This is simple to fix and needs no new parts. Another common issue is the flapper is old and brittle. The cracks in it will cause the water to run as well. This requires a new flapper to be installed.

Why won’t the water stop running into my toilet?

There are several reasons why the water is running in your toilet. They are outlined above. You may want to go through the process outlined in this article to troubleshoot the problem and fix the issue.

Why is my toilet running after I flush?

The toilet runs after the flush because the flapper or flush valve is stuck in an up position longer than it should after the flush. The solution to this is listed above in the section titled Toilet Keeps Running After Flush. Follow these steps to troubleshoot and solve the issue. 

Is it bad if my toilet keeps running?

A running toilet can be a sign of a larger issue. You will want to fix the problem in order to save money on your water bill if nothing else. Fixing the issue doesn’t take long, and most likely isn’t expensive. Start at the top of this article and follow the steps to fixing the issue to this problem.

Conclusion

Stopping a toilet from running isn’t difficult. It is a quick fix that is easy to troubleshoot. If you follow along with this article, you will solve the problem of having a running toilet. I hope this article helped. 

Thank you for reading this article. Here at Castle Remodel I am dedicated to helping you build your castle. 

You got this,

Kevin

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How To Install A Light Fixture https://castleremodel.com/install-a-light-fixture/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=install-a-light-fixture Thu, 28 Dec 2023 05:59:43 +0000 https://castleremodel.com/?p=1184 Learning how to install a light fixture in the ceiling is not very hard at all. In fact, it will save you a lot of money not having to hire an expensive handyman to do it for you. And when you are done with the install you will be able to enjoy your work each […]

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Learning how to install a light fixture in the ceiling is not very hard at all. In fact, it will save you a lot of money not having to hire an expensive handyman to do it for you. And when you are done with the install you will be able to enjoy your work each and every day. Now let’s get started in learning how to install a light fixture.

Required Tools

Steps For Installing A Light Fixture

Step 1: Switch Off The Power

This step is by far the most important. Turning off the power at the breaker will allow you to work safely, without any worry of electric shock. This is easier if you have someone else who can stand in the room and tell you when the power is off.

Now you can use the voltage detector to be certain the power is shut off. It’s better to be redundant than sorry, especially when working with electricity.

You also need to realize you won’t have the luxury of using the light in the room. For this reason, you may want to install the light fixture in the daytime. This will hopefully allow enough daylight through the window for you to work comfortably.  

If there isn’t enough natural light in the room, you can fix this problem by plugging in a lamp in a room with power using an extension cord.

Step 2: Remove Old Lamp From Ceiling

Now you can remove the old lamp from the ceiling. The main tool for this is a screwdriver, but a wire stripper with a built in wire cutter is also helpful. 

Each ceiling lamp is different, but it’s not hard to figure out how to remove it. The main thing to start with is the lamp shade. Some of the common ways to remove them is a thumb screw, or they may twist off. 

Once the shade is off you want to take the bulbs out and put them in a place they won’t get broken. Use the screwdriver to remove the machine screws holding it to the ceiling. 

To disconnect the fixture from the ceiling, you can twist off the wire nuts and disconnect it that way. Another option is to use the wire cutter on your wire stripper to snip the wires just above the wire nuts. 

Disclaimer: Do not cut the wires unless you feel comfortable stripping the ends before connecting the new fixture. You will also want to make sure there is enough length of wire coming out the ceiling before you do this option. There must be enough length in these wires for the new fixture to attach to.

Step 3: Attach The New Light Fixture

When attaching the wires, make sure you are connecting the white wire from the fixture to the white wire in the  ceiling. Some ceilings may have a piece of different color wire that is not white. The white wire is neutral, and the black (or other color) wire is hot. 

Connect the copper grounding wire in the fixture to the copper wire coming out of the ceiling using a wire nut. If there is no grounding wire in your ceiling, but your light fixture has a mounting bracket with a green screw in it, you can connect the wire to this screw. If that is not present you can fold the grounding wire up and stick it aside.

Hold the two black wires together and twist in a clockwise direction. Then take a wire nut that comes with your new light fixture and twist it onto these wires in the same direction. Do this step with the white wire as well. 

Bonus Step: Use Electrical Tape To Secure Wires To Wire Nuts

This step is not necessary, but I feel like it gives a great sense of comfort. Use a 4-6 in piece of electrical tape  to secure the wire to the wire nut. It’s nice knowing the wires won’t work themselves apart when pushing the wires into the box.

Step 4: Attach Light Fixture To The Ceiling

Now it’s time to screw the light fixture base to the ceiling. It’s helpful to loosely attach the machine screws to the ceiling box. There are two screw holes where the old screws came out. If these screws are still there, and in good condition you can reuse them if you’d like. 

Next, shove all the wires and the wire nuts into the ceiling light box. At the same time fit the heads of the machine screws into the two “keyhole” shaped openings on the light fixture. Twist the fixture to lock the screws in place.  

Use your screwdriver to tighten these screws. They don’t need to be too tight, but they should be firm enough to seat the fixture onto the ceiling.

Step 5: Turn On The Breaker

Go ahead and turn your breaker back on at this point. You want to do this before installing the light cover. This gives you less items to remove if one of the previous steps wasn’t done correctly.

If your light fixture is not LED, now is when you would put the light bulbs in. If you turn on the light switch and it doesn’t come on, that means one or both of your wires are not installed correctly. Turn the breaker off and take the fixture back off.

If you turn on the light switch and it comes on you can put the lamp shade on according to the directions that came with your light fixture.

Conclusion

Congratulations, you successfully installed a ceiling light fixture. I’m proud of you!!

Please feel free to leave me a question or comment you might have in the comment section below. Thanks for reading the article.

-Kevin

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How To Install A Garbage Disposal https://castleremodel.com/garbage-disposal-installation/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=garbage-disposal-installation Sat, 23 Dec 2023 06:06:57 +0000 https://castleremodel.com/?p=2039 If you don’t know how to install a garbage disposal, it would feel practically impossible. The truth is you don’t need any special tools to install one. In fact, this article will show you that anybody who knows a few DIY basics can install it in about an hour. Read this article to get a […]

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If you don’t know how to install a garbage disposal, it would feel practically impossible. The truth is you don’t need any special tools to install one. In fact, this article will show you that anybody who knows a few DIY basics can install it in about an hour. Read this article to get a hassle-free guide on how to install a garbage disposal.

There are many garbage disposals to choose from. If you haven’t decided on one for your home yet, then I am going to recommend the Insinkerator Badger 1 model. It is ⅓ horsepower, which is plenty of power for your home’s kitchen. Click the link below to take a look at it.

Installing a garbage disposal is easier than you might think. This article is going to show you how to install one if you have electrical power under your sink. There are two forms this power can come in. The first is for there to be a power outlet that is available under the cabinet. The second is for it to have a hardline connection directly to the garbage disposal.

Required Tools

How To Install a Garbage Disposal in a Double Sink

The steps outlined here include how to install a garbage disposal with and without a dishwasher. If you have a dishwasher connected to your existing garbage disposal, you will follow the steps outlined below for that. If there is no dishwasher connected, skip those steps.

Turn Off The Power

The first step for any job that you are working on anything that has electricity running to it is to turn off the power at the breaker box. This can be easy if you have a well labeled panel. But if it isn’t labeled very well it might be a guessing game.

Test if the power is off before you make any assumptions. The easiest way to do this is to flip on the switch for the garbage disposal. It is safe to begin if it doesn’t come on. Remember to flip it off though, because you don’t want the new garbage disposal to turn on when you turn the power back on.

This is also the right time to remove any products that are in the way. Find a place to put as many of them as possible. You want to have as much working space as you can. For the installation.

Disconnect The Old Garbage Disposal

Garbage disposal connection screw locations.

There will be two screws attached to the discharge pipe. Back those out all the way and set them aside. If there is a dishwasher attached to the disposal this is a good time to remove the hose that attaches it. To do this turn the screw on the pipe clamp counterclockwise until the clamp is loose. Then pull the connection off the garbage disposal.

There are also three screws facing upward just beneath the sink. Loosen each of these about half way. If you use a screwdriver for two of them, the third should be able to loosen by hand. You want to back them out enough to lift the bottom of the bracket up towards the sink. 

Once these screws are loose and the drain pipe is disconnected from the garbage disposal, hold the bracket steady with one hand and twist the garbage disposal to the left with the other. This should pop it loose. 

Mounting Flange Removal

After it is movable, take a flat screwdriver to pop off the metal ring that is holding the pieces of this bracket together. To do this first slide all the parts upwards towards the sink. This will allow the ring to be visible. While holding them up with one hand, use a flat screwdriver in your other hand to slide the ring downward.

It should pop off pretty easily. Once you have this ring out all the pieces of the bracket should be able to be removed. There is one piece that will need to be slid upwards into the sink. After the sink is cleared you will want to wipe any leftover plumbers putty away from the hole.

Remove The Electrical Cord

Garbage Disposal Electrical Connection

Is the garbage disposal plugged into a wall outlet, or is it hardlined in? If it’s plugged in you can simply pull the plug out and the garbage disposal will be free to move. You will need to attach a power cord to the new garbage disposal, and may need to reuse the old cord. Both methods are the same from this point on.

If it is hard lined in, you will need to remove the wires before you can lift the disposal away. 

To do this simply turn the disposal upside down, or lay it on it’s side with the bottom facing you (whichever one is easier for you). There is a small metal plate with one screw in it near the location the wires go into the bottom. Remove this screw.

There should be two wire nuts, and one grounding wire screw. Remove the wire nuts, and loosen the screw. Once all three wires are free you should be able to pull them out. You may want to clip them close to the location they were twisted if this is easier. 

Disclaimer: Only clip them if you have plenty of length on your wire left. Also only do this if you have a wire stripper handy and are comfortable with stripping the wires later. It can be a larger problem if there isn’t enough length to hook up the new disposal.

You also want to remove the connector the wires are going through. There are a couple of screws that can be removed. Once the wires are pulled out you can turn this connector counterclockwise to remove it.

How To Install a Garbage Disposal With a Dishwasher

Dishwasher Discharge Hose

This step is ONLY for a garbage disposal that will have the dishwasher tube attached. If there is no dishwasher, or the dishwasher is attached directly to the sink drain then this step can be ignored.

The small opening on the side of the garbage disposal is for the dishwasher discharge line. If you look into this opening you will see there is a plastic barrier inside. 

Lay the garbage disposal on it’s side, and stick your screwdriver into the hole. Hit the screwdriver until it breaks the plastic piece loose. You may need a hammer for this step. Make sure you get this plastic piece out of the garbage disposal. Reach in and pull it out.

Attach The Wires To The New Garbage Disposal

The steps to do this are the reverse order of what we just did. Feed the wires through the connector, and remove the screw and cover plate. Push the wires through the hole and out of the opening. 

Attach the wires in the same order you removed them. White is connected to white, and black is connected to black. Screw on the wire nuts. I like to put a piece of electrical tape around the base of the wire nuts, holding it onto the wire more securely. If you don’t have any electrical tape you can skip this part.

Attach The Mounting Flange

Mounting Flange Assembly

Start by looking at how all the pieces of the flange are attached. This is how you are going to set it back up after you take it apart. 

Back down the three screws with a flathead screwdriver. You don’t need to remove them completely, but get them as low as possible. 

Slide the pieces together, exposing the mounting ring. Use the flathead screwdriver to pop the ring off. This will allow all the pieces to be separated.

The sink mount flange is the cylindrical piece that the mounting ring was attached to. You are going to want to put a bead of plumber’s putty around the underside of the ridge of this flange. 

Plumber's Putty On Flange

Take a chunk of putty and roll it in your hands until it is like a long snake about half an inch thick. Press the putty around the flange where it is going to make contact with the sink (not the side with the words). 

When this is done you want to stick the flange through the hole and press it onto the sink. It is good to line up the words as you do this to make them easier to read.

When it is firmly pressed on you will go back under the sink. Feed the pieces up onto the flange the same way they came off. Start with the cardboard, and then put the two mounting flanges in the same order and orientation they were when taken out of the box. 

Holding all the pieces up, but being careful not to bump the mounting flange loose, pop the mounting ring back on. This may take a moment to do.

Once all the pieces are on it’s time to tighten the screws up by hand. Don’t make them super tight yet, but get them evenly tightened. You want these pieces to still be able to rotate. 

Attach The Garbage Disposal

There are three little lips on the top of the garbage disposal that go into the three grooves on the bottom of the mounting flange. Lift the disposal up and secure it to the flange by turning it clockwise. You want to get it pretty firmly in place. 

Once it is attached to the flange, spin the disposal so the discharge hole is lined up with the discharge pipe. Once the screw holes are lined up, attach the two screws. 

Push on the dishwasher discharge line and tighten the pipe clamp. 

Tighten the three screws on the flange equally. Once these screws are tight, you can remove the excess plumber’s putty from inside the sink. There is some putty that is pressed out between the sink and the flange. This can be wiped away by hand and thrown in the trash. 

The garbage disposal is now installed. If it has a power cord that needs to plug into the wall, do this now. If not, it is ready for the next step. 

Turn The Power Back On

Go to the breaker box and turn the power back on. Test your work by turning on the faucet and flipping the switch to the garbage disposal. 

Congratulations on installing your new garbage disposal. Your work is done!

How To Install a Garbage Disposal in a Kitchen Sink That Never Had One Before

Start by removing the drain assembly. Loosen the nut on the bottom of the assembly. Also loosen the nut at the top of the p-trap. Once you remove the drain, and the section of pipe connecting it to the p-trap, you are ready to start.

The steps for installing the garbage disposal are the same as the ones outlined above. The main difference is you will need to connect the discharge pipe to the p-trap.

Attach the discharge pipe to the garbage disposal before mounting it. Follow the steps outlined above, but don’t tighten the flange all the way down yet. Just hang the garbage disposal and rotate it until the discharge pipe is lined up with the p-trap.

When lined up, take notice of how far below the top of the p-trap it hangs down. You want it to go below the nut, but not past where it begins to bend. There is a section of the p-trap that is slightly wider than the rest of it. This is the location the end of the discharge tube will sit.

If the discharge tube goes beyond this section, you will need to mark and cut it using a sharpie and a hacksaw. Make the cut as straight as possible. It’s easiest if you mark it, then take the disposal off the flange and lay it flat. Clean off any burrs that are left on the pipe.

Remove the nut and plastic washer. Slide the nut and washer up the discharge tube in the same orientation as they were when you removed them. After this is done it’s time to put the disposal back on the flange.

Once it’s on and the discharge tube is placed in the p-trap, tighten everything down. Start with the p-trap nut by sliding it down the tube and seat it on the threads. Make sure the threads are lined up as you turn it by hand until it’s tight.

Tighten the three screws at the top of the flange with the screwdriver. Make sure they are tightened evenly, but you don’t need to overly tighten them.

Frequently Asked Questions:

Can you replace a garbage disposal yourself?

You don’t need to call an expensive plumber to install a new garbage disposal. It only requires a few simple hand tools to replace one. It’s even easier if there is one that’s already in place. But if not, don’t worry. The installation process for either case is outlined above.

How easy is it to replace a garbage disposal?

I would rank it as one of the easier home repair jobs there is. It only requires a few hand tools that every homeowner should already have. A phillips and flat screwdriver, wire strippers, and possibly a hacksaw are the only tools you need. Plumber’s putty is the only product you need to buy aside from the new garbage disposal itself.

Do I need a plumber to install a garbage disposal?

You do not need to pay for a plumber to install a garbage disposal. This article shows you step-by-step how to install it. Save your money, and do it yourself.

Conclusion

The installation process for a new garbage disposal is simple and straightforward. The steps to remove an old unit is the reverse order to the steps to install a new one. The only situation that might be a little harder is to install one on a sink that doesn’t already have one. But that isn’t much more difficult.

Thank you for reading this article. I hope it helps you with what you are looking for. Here at Castle Remodel I am devoted in helping you turn your home into a sanctuary!

Happy Remodeling,

Kevin

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Best Bathroom Exhaust Fan – A Buyer’s Guide https://castleremodel.com/best-bathroom-fan/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=best-bathroom-fan Wed, 22 Nov 2023 20:06:28 +0000 https://castleremodel.com/?p=1621 Getting the best bathroom exhaust fan is one of the most important purchases for a bathroom. A good one will be able to remove foul odors and humidity out of the room without your noticing. Now bathroom fans come with a variety of options to choose from. Keep reading to get your hands on the […]

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Getting the best bathroom exhaust fan is one of the most important purchases for a bathroom. A good one will be able to remove foul odors and humidity out of the room without your noticing. Now bathroom fans come with a variety of options to choose from. Keep reading to get your hands on the best bathroom exhaust fan for your home.

By clicking the purchasing through the links in this article you will be helping fund this website. They are affiliate links which means I get a commission for the sale, but you WILL NOT be paying any extra money. Thank you for your support!

The bathroom fans in this article are ceiling fans that may require an additional ducting kit and vent box. When shopping for a brand new ceiling fan, make sure to get a duct kit that is the same diameter as what the fan is rated for. If you have a duct in place, you can tell what the size is by holding a tape measure up to the inside of the ducting. If you will be installing a new duct you will want to purchase the kit with the fan, making sure they are the same size.

The best bathroom exhaust fan is one that will turn your bathroom time into an experience you look forward to. The company Broan-NuTone makes the ChromaComfort bathroom fan that has a 24 color changing LED light, bluetooth speaker that is android and iOS compatible, and timer feature as well. It moves air at 110 CFM, and at 1.5 sones it sounds softer than a quiet library.

How Do I Know What Bathroom Fan to Buy?

There are several important things to think about when picking the right bathroom fan. Each bathroom is different in its own unique way, and may have specific requirements from the members of the household. Below is a series of bathroom fan characteristics you want to consider when searching for your best bathroom exhaust fan.

Bathroom Fan Buyer’s Guide:

(These are the categories you will be considering when buying a bathroom exhaust fan)

Performance

Look for a fan with sufficient airflow capacity (measured in cubic feet per minute, or CFM) to effectively ventilate your bathroom. The Home Ventilating Institute (HVI) recommends a minimum of 50 CFM for each fixture (toilet, shower, bathtub, etc.) in the bathroom.

Quiet Operation

Choose a fan with a low sone rating for quiet operation. A lower sone rating indicates quieter performance. The low end for bathroom fans is <0.3 which is around a low whisper. On the high end, 6.0 sones is similar to the sound level you might hear in a sports arena.

Energy Efficiency

Opt for an Energy Star certified model, as these fans are designed to be more energy-efficient. This will save you money on electricity in the long run while also be beneficial for the environment.

LED Light Quality

Consider the brightness and color temperature of the LED light. Look for a fan with LED lights that provide sufficient illumination for the bathroom and have a color temperature that suits your preferences.

Durability and Build Quality

Ensure that the fan is well-built and durable. Look for features such as a sturdy housing and a quality motor. Reading the reviews can be a good starting point for this.

Easy Installation

 If you’re planning to install the fan yourself, choose one with a design that facilitates easy installation. Some models come with user-friendly installation instructions and features.

Brand Reputation

Consider well-known and reputable brands in the ventilation industry for this purchase. Reading customer reviews and checking ratings can provide insights into the performance and reliability of a particular model. Some popular brand names to consider are Broan-NuTone, OREiN, and Panasonic to name a few.

Humidity Sensor

A humidity sensor on a bathroom fan can be a helpful feature to have. The fan will turn on when the humidity reaches a certain level in the room. If your fan doesn’t have a humidity sensor, a good alternative is to use a timer switch that will turn it off after an allotted amount of time.

Timer Switch

Some bathroom fans include a built-in timer. I recommend getting a timer switch you can replace your light switch with. This will be much easier to use, and will do the same thing in the end. Make sure the bathroom fan you choose is compatible with timer light switches.

Venting

There are three main options for venting a bathroom fan. Some fans require a 3 inch duct, some use a 4 inch duct. There are also bathroom fans that don’t use any duct, but rather recirculate the air after running it through a carbon filter. The best option is either to go with a bathroom fan that hooks up to a duct. But if this is not an option for your situation, you have the recirculating fan as an option as well.

Price

The prices of a basic bathroom fan for a small bathroom can be as low as $25-30. The price will go up for larger models, and fans with more built-in features. The high end brand’s prices for a bathroom fan can be several hundred dollars.

Duct Size

There are several duct size options you can choose from. The most important thing to consider is if you have an existing fan you will want to know what size duct it has. Although rare, there is a chance your bathroom fan is ductless. This is when the bathroom is not near an exterior wall. If you have no fan and are going to install one with a duct, pick the same size duct as the fan output hole.

CFM Rating

Bathroom fans have a CFM rating which stands for cubic feet per minute. To find out what the minimum CFM rating for your bathroom, measure the length (in feet) and multiply that by the width. The CFM of the fan you choose should be whatever the square footage is of your bathroom at a minimum.

Best Bathroom Exhaust Fans According to Their Features

Now that you know what features are available in a bathroom fan, let’s see what fans are available that offer features you are looking for. Below is a series of bathroom fans that are ideal for different situations. 

A LED light is one of the most desired features in a bathroom fan. This boosts the fan’s functionality tremendously. When looking for a bathroom exhaust fan with a LED light, you want one that is dimmable. This will be much better than having a fan with a preset level of light. That’s why I recommend the Homewerks 7141-50 Bathroom Fan.

In some situations you want a more powerful bathroom exhaust fan. And sometimes having a built-in light on the fan is really important. OREiN offers a fan that moves 160 CFM, and only puts out 1.0 sones of noise while doing it. It has 4 light options, and a built-in humidity sensor as well. Take a look at this fan on Amazon by visiting the link below. 

The Delta Breeze GBR89H is the best bathroom exhaust fan with a built-in humidity sensor. There are multiple options available including two CFM levels. You can also choose between multiple speeds, LED light option, motion, and humidity sensor.

The Broan NuTone BHFLED110 PowerHeat is a great exhaust fan with a built-in heater. It pushes 110 CFM of air, making it strong enough to be used in any medium sized bathroom. It has a LED light option available for those who prefer a bathroom fan with a light.

A bathroom fan is one of the best ways to prevent mold in the most humid room in the house. Having the right amount of airflow will move moist air out of the bathroom and away from surfaces that would otherwise harbor mold growth. Below is the best bathroom fan to prevent mold. The Broan Nutone AE110 Invent Flex pushes 110 CFM of air. It is whisper quiet, making it a great choice for the average size bathroom.

A bluetooth speaker is one of the best accessories the bathroom fans come with. Play your favorite music, podcast, or anything else you desire over the Broan NuTone ChromaComfort Bathroom Exhaust Fan. It also includes a 24 color option LED light, making your bathroom time an experience.

Feature Options Without The Fan

Sometimes we have a perfectly fine bathroom fan, but we want to add some of the features like the ones listed above. Now you can get the features you want without installing a new bathroom fan. Here are some accessories ideas that will upgrade your bathroom experience.

Leviton makes a humidity sensor that can be installed where the fan’s wall switch is. If the humidity gets too high the fan will turn on automatically. You are also able to turn the fan on and off manually as well. It’s available in three colors.

Plug-in Heater

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The JBL Flip 5 is a portable bluetooth speaker that is perfect for using in the bathroom. This is a great option if your existing bathroom fan doesn’t have a built-in speaker already. It’s waterproof and portable, allowing you to use it in any room of the house.

Frequently Asked Questions:

Which brand is best for a bathroom exhaust fan?

There are several brands that are known to be good bathroom exhaust fan brands. The brand Broan-NuTone is known for making bathroom exhaust fans that are extremely quiet and last a long time.

Is a higher CFM better in a bathroom exhaust fan?

The higher the CFM rating, the quicker the air will be removed from the room. A higher CFM rated fan will move disgusting smells and humidity out of the bathroom in a shorter amount of time. This is helpful to look at when shopping for a fan for a larger bathroom (see above diagram). Oftentimes the faster the fan, the louder the motor is.

What is the best type of fan for a bathroom?

A ceiling mounted exhaust fan is the most efficient way to move humidity and foul odors out of the bathroom. They use a duct that pushes the bad air out of the room so the fresh air can come in.

What’s the most powerful extractor fan for a bathroom?

The Panasonic FV-40VQ4 boasts a whopping 390 CFM rating. This fan will be able to handle a large residential bathroom with ease. This is not a common CFM rating for bathroom fans. On average, the higher CFM rating is going to be in the 120-160 range.

Conclusion

There are many options in the world of bathroom fans nowadays. Taking a moment to think about what features can best accommodate your household will help improve your bathroom experience. But also remember that sometimes it’s best to keep things simple as well.

I hope you enjoyed this article. If you have any questions or comments please leave them in the comment section below. Thank you for reading!

-Kevin

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Placement Of Smoke Detectors And Carbon Monoxide Detectors https://castleremodel.com/smoke-detector-placement/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=smoke-detector-placement Fri, 10 Mar 2023 00:34:39 +0000 https://castleremodel.com/?p=1255 Smoke and carbon monoxide detector placement is simple, as long as these rules are met...

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Proper placement of smoke detectors and carbon monoxide detectors in your home is important to the safety of your family. You want to have the right number of them installed in the correct locations. Follow these simple rules to have your smoke and carbon monoxide alarms at peak performance. Continue reading to find out how easy it is to properly place smoke and carbon monoxide detectors in your home.

 

Smoke alarm technology has improved tremendously over the years. But the discussion around picking out a particular alarm for your home is not in the scope of this article. That’s why I want you to read this article about picking The Best Smoke Detector. It walks you through all the details on smoke and carbon monoxide alarms.

Where To Place Smoke Detectors And Carbon Monoxide Detectors

The National Fire Alarm and Signaling Code, also known as NFPA 72 has some requirements that should be met to ensure maximum safety from your alarms. Although smoke detectors and carbon monoxide detectors have different requirements, they overlap enough to be able to use a combination unit where appropriate. 

 

Room placement for smoke detectors requires them in every bedroom, in the hallway outside the sleeping areas, and at least one on every level of the house, including basements. There must be at least one carbon monoxide alarm on every level of the house in the main living areas, including basements. 

 

It is recommended to have a smoke detector in the kitchen area, but is not a requirement. Keep in mind that having one in the kitchen may trigger false alarms while cooking. Neither type of alarm is required in a garage or an attic space. 

 

CAUTION: Do not place either smoke or carbon monoxide alarms in the bathroom, as the humidity may reduce their lifespan.

 

You do not need a carbon monoxide alarm inside the bedrooms or the kitchen. Neither alarm should be within a 6 ft radius of any appliances.

Smoke Detector on Wall or Ceiling

When deciding on a placement for a smoke detector, your choices to consider are putting them on either a wall or a ceiling. Its okay to install them in either location, but keep a few things in mind.

 

Wall placement for a smoke detector is best if the top of the alarm is at least four inches from the ceiling, but no more than one foot from the ceiling. And it does not matter what orientation they are placed in when mounting them to the wall.

 

Ceiling placement for smoke detectors is best if the edge of them are at least 4 inches from the wall. The corners of the room are considered a dead air zone. It’s also ideal to have them in front of, or near to the room’s main doorway. This will cause it to sound if any smoke outside the room comes in through the doorway. See diagram.

Carbon monoxide detector placement is a bit different, but overlaps the smoke detector placement. This makes it possible to be able to use combination units that detect for both smoke and carbon monoxide.

 

Wall placement for carbon monoxide detectors is at least 6 inches from the ceiling and 6 inches from the floor. If you want to install it on the ceiling you will place the edge at least 6 inches from the wall. See diagram.

Interconnecting (Hard Wired) Smoke Detectors Vs Battery Operated Smoke Detectors

There are two available power options for smoke detectors. One way is to hard wire them together. This began being a requirement for new houses in 1973, but that year is not the same for every state. Houses built in or after 1992 require the hard wired smoke detectors to have a built in battery backup. 

 

Interconnecting the smoke detectors links them to one another so that if one triggers, all of them will be triggered. This option is built into the home during the construction phase, so if your home doesn’t have wires installed, then you don’t need this type of alarm.

 

The main benefit for this is if you are not in the area that has smoke, and the alarm is going off somewhere in the house you will hear it more quickly, and be able to get to safety sooner.

Photoelectric Vs Ionization Smoke Detectors

There are two types of sensors used in smoke detectors. Each one does a better job than its counterpart at responding to particular types of smoke more quickly. Some states require one option as opposed to the other. And other states may even require a combination of the two to be used.

 

The chart below will help you determine which type of smoke detector you need in your state. If you are in the market for buying a smoke detector visit the article on picking The Best Smoke Detectors.

What Are Photoelectric Smoke Detectors?

Fires can be placed into two basic categories. The typical ones we think about are those that have a visible flame producing smoke. But there is another type of fire that smolders. This means it doesn’t have any flames but produces larger smoke particles.

 

The larger particles are read more quickly by a photoelectric smoke detector. This means you will be alerted more quickly to a smoldering fire with this smoke alarm.

 

There happens to be another type of fire that we may encounter. An ionization smoke alarm has a sensor built for these types of fires.

What Is An Ionization Smoke Detector?

When we think of fires we generally think of a visible flame that produces smoke. The smoke from these flames will typically have smaller particles that are read more quickly by an ionization smoke detector. This is helpful to alert you quickly so you can get to safety faster.

Now that we know the difference between Ionization and Photoelectric smoke detectors, there is one question I know that’s on your mind.

Do I Need Both Ionization And Photoelectric Smoke Detectors?

It’s ideal to have both ionization and photoelectric alarms in your home, but not always a requirement. This chart is going to show you the basics of what your state requires. It’s a good idea to do a quick search online to find out if maybe your county or city has different requirements than what are listed here.

For states that don’t mind which one you chose it’s fine to pick either one. They will both alarm you in a reasonable time frame if there is smoke in your house. 

How Often Should I Test my Smoke Alarms?

It’s recommended you test your alarm once every week or two. If you can’t do it frequently, try to test them at least once a month. A lot of the newer models have a test button making this easy.

 

This article is meant to be a broad overview of the above topic. If you have any more specific questions it’s best to do an independent search online to find those answers. 

 

And if you are ready to buy your smoke detectors, then visit the article called The Best Smoke Detector. It includes carbon monoxide detectors in it as well.

 

Happy Home Owning,

Kevin

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